Frequently Asked Questions
Only if the seller is an authorized dealer for our products. If you are not sure contact us here.
Isopropyl Alcohol is the only cleaner that when it evaporates does not leave a film. Solvents like acetone, lacquer thinner and others evaporate so quickly they leave a film that will interfere with the adhesive. It is important that you closely follow the directions for cleaning as a clean uncontaminated surface is needed for the adhesive to set properly.
KeelShield may be placed over existing damage, as long as there are no gouges or scratches more than ¼” deep and your keel is not leaking. If you have extensive damage or your keel is leaking you will need to make some kind of repair before you install your KeelShield. If you make repairs yourself, be sure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions on curing before you install your KeelShield.
KeelShield will not work on some aluminum boats. Some Alumacraft , G3 Angler, Lowes and Lunds. KeelShield will not conform to boats with the knife like reinforced keelbone. Please contact us for more info on these brands of boats.
The surface temperature must be at least 70 degrees for the adhesive to “kick” properly. If you are located in a cold region please be especially cautious as boats and PWC stored in cold sheds will need time to “warm up” before application. Remember the boat hull temperature must be at least 70 degrees not just the outside temperature or the building temperature.
It will work as long as the KeelShield (after it is installed) Does Not rest on the bunks or any weight bearing rollers. The KeelShield Can Not come in contact or rest on bunks or weight bearing rollers even when unloading the boat from the trailer. If the roller or bunk is further down and your KeelShield doesn’t rest on it when you are trailered, you still need to be sure that when you launch that you try to float the boat off of your trailer so your KeelShield does not get caught on it.
No. It takes about 2 hours to do a boat and 1 hour to do a PWC
There is no need to use anything else, just remember, abrade the surface in a circular motion.
RIB’s come in a variety of sizes and they are used in many different applications.
RIB’s that are 12 feet and under are generally used as tenders and they are most likely going to be pulled all the way up a beach to prevent it from drifting off during a rising tide. Larger ribs may be used as a primary boat (not as a tender) or as a tender to larger vessels.
With these two distinctions made you can determine how you want to protect your bottom.
For smaller RIB’s up to 11’;
For protection against keel damage while pulling up on a beach completely;
1)Measure from the bottom of the bow eye to the transom.
2)Take this measurement on center to the transom radius.
3)Add 4” to this measurement which can be turned up the transom.
4)If you have a drain plug in the transom, you can “punch” a hole to accommodate the drain plug.
By turning up the KeelShield at the transom, the KeelShield will not get caught on rocks and it will make it easier to slide the RIB off the beach.
For RIB’s in the 11’ up to 13” Range
Ribs in this range can be pulled up a beach completely or you may just pull it up part way onto the beach for a short stay. The important question here is how you use your RIB.
1)For RIB’s pulled up a beach completely we recommend that you follow the guidelines for a smaller RIB (As above) and protect the keel completely with KeelShield.
2)For Ribs that are used as a small boat and are not pulled up completely you can use a 5’ piece.
3)If you have been using your RIB for a period of time and have present wear on the keel, you can measure from the bow eye to the aft end of the damaged section and add 2’ for a safety margin.
For larger RIB’s over 13’;
1)For RIB’s 13’ to 16’ use a minimum 6’ length
2)For RIB’s 16’ and over use the minimum length as recommended in the standard size chart on the KeelShield site.
No, KeelShield will not work on the Yamaha VX 110 and the Sea Doo 4-Tec Hull design. KeelShield is 5″ wide and the jet ski hull needs to be smooth with no ridges for the product to work. Please contact us if you have questions regarding your jet ski.
When you receive a new boat there is still mold release wax on the surface. If you follow the KeelShield directions exactly as they are written then you will not need to do anything special. It is very important to do each step exactly as they are described in the instructions.
You can make a light pencil line down the centerline after you abrade the boat but before you do the final cleaning of the surface. Enough of the line will remain so you can align the KeelShield protector on center.
Boats will notice no effect on either speed or handling. PWC tests have shown that KeelShield protectors may increase the speed of your PWC slightly and increase the tracking ability.
Yes, Make sure you have applied pressure inside the grooves with the squeegee. It is important that pressure has been applied to all surfaces, both ridges and grooves, to assure a 100% bond.
If the paint is anti-fouling paint (is dusty to the touch). The paint will have to be sanded off. Then apply the KeelShield per the instructions.
If it is an aluminum boat it will stick as long as the paint does not chip or flake off. When you install a KeelShield you must first scuff the surface. If the paint sands off you will be fine.If the paint chips or flakes you will have to sand off the paint where the KeelShield will be installed.
Once the surface is prepared DO NOT TOUCH IT. The oils in your skin will neutralize the adhesive thus causing adhesive failure. Do not touch the prepared surface or the tape during application.
You can use a clean rag and some alcohol to clean away the excess primer from the hull. The alcohol will also clean the KeelShield of any dirt or shipping marks.
Yes, using the squeegee, press hard on the edges,grooves and the ends to make sure the KeelShield is secure. If you have missed one area and it is possible there are others. Remember, it is very important that you have full contact of the adhesive to the hull for a full bond.
KeelShield protectors will come either pre cut to the proper length for your PWC or boat or in a length you can trim yourself. If you find that a piece is a little too long then you can cut it using a metal straight edge and a heavy-duty non-retracting razor knife. If you need to trim your KeelShield always trim it in the aft section, as you do not want to change the radius or bevel of the forward section.
The easiest way is to roll it over onto its side. Take a 2×4 or something that will support the PWC on its side. From there the application should be a snap.
Yes , because the material that KeelShield is made out of and the plastics the docks are made of grab and do not slide on the docks. We recommend that you do not install KeelShield .
NO! Once you have applied the adhesive to the prepared surface it will not come off. So please be sure that you are starting where you planned to and that you have lined the KeelShield protector on the center.
For boats the KeelShield must go far enough aft to cover any area that will be on the beach, plus one (1-2) foot extra. It is very important that the trailing edge of the KeelShield never touch the sand. Remember KeelShield protectors can never be to long. Please refer to the sizing chart. If this length is not long enough to reach past the present wear, add the additional length and order accordingly.
When installing on a PWC, the KeelShield protector should go all the way aft until it is 1/4″ from the intake grate (Note: do not apply the KeelShield protector to the intake grate itself). This will allow the PWC to be pulled on and off a beach without wearing on the aft end.
To repair a fully damaged Skeg, you will need a minimum of 2″-3″ inches left to securely attach the SkegShield Skeg Guard for optimal performance and reliability.